HomeBlogCamera Trapping TechnologyDeep TechDeep Tech: Hacking Trail Camera Firmware 1 — Overview

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Deep Tech: Hacking Trail Camera Firmware 1 — Overview — 4 Comments

  1. I was a software developer for the business software the company used and I would put in options frequently to let the user choose. So, often in products and software I use, I run into situations of why are there not more options.
    Thank you for adding features that trail camera users can utilize.

    • You’re welcome! I can see why a company would restrict the number of options: increased development time/$; increased testing time/$$; increased tech support time/$$. If the new feature doesn’t bring in more money then it costs, it doesn’t get done. That’s business. I worked at a company that spent an enormous amount of time and $$ figuring out whether a new feature made business sense, or not. It’s exhausting! It’s more fun these days to add features that are useful for folks who are doing cool work, but who have very limited budgets. Still, there will come a time when then bathtub curve catches up to me, and this won’t be practical any more.

  2. Bob,
    Can I first say how generous it is of you to publish all the information on these cameras.
    I have a BTC7e camera that has two faults :-
    1. It loses data and time whenever a reset occurs. I have replaced the supercapacitor ( corroded ,2.7 volt charge through D4 from 3v3), removed ( using low temperature solder) the 25 series flash reprogramed it with the image from Github, run the diagnostic ( left tight and mode held during power up) on the rtc and it works. I can also see the rtc work by staying within the setup menus for more than i minute and returning to date and time set.
    I cannot find the rtc chip on the board to check the supply and back up voltage.
    Can you help

    2. The leds under the buttons do not come on despite all being ok using a DVM in diode mode and being supplied with 3v3.

    Adding the numbers of the chips on the boards would be very helpful as manufacturers temp to try and reuse pcb layouts and components. They are all easy to replace with chip quik low temperature solder and good flux.
    For instance the 20 pin ST-866 I cannot find easily.

    • Wow — a man after my own tech heart 🙂

      1. Lost Data: Just so I understand — you removed the factory EEPROM (by desoldering), then reprogrammed it withe image from my GitHub site; then soldered the same part back in?

      First of all — good job! I’ve never been able to reuse an EEPROM I’ve desoldered. But you may have been hoist by your own desoldering skill. The failure mode I’ve seen in these EEPROMs is that they lose the ability to write new data. Thus, they still “work”, since the old data (program and settings) can be read, but they can’t accept any new settings. This also means they can’t be reprogrammed. I’m surprised that your programmer didn’t complain about programming errors? I’m also surprised that if it was able to reprogram the device, that it would work, since the EEPROM images on my Github site are specific to the MX25L12835FM21-10G (that is not the same as the factory EEPROM) (The boot loader checks the EEPROM device id and compares it to the value stored in the firmware before downloading the rest of the EEPROM). Net, net. I would remove the current EEPROM, throw it away, and install a new MX25L12835FM21-10G programmed with the correct image.

      2. LEDs: It’s possible that the EEPROM lost the bits that turn the LED on, and that replacing the EEPROM will also fix the LED probem. We can only hope. I haven’t looked at this circuit, but for sure it’s controlled by firmware, which means there’s an activation signal in there somewhere. It’s possible that the route to the signal has been damaged somewhere along the line by a little moisture incursion. I would start by using a meter with some very sharp probes and some good magnifying optics to trace the path on both legs of the LED as far back as possible, looking for trace or connector damage.

      3. I’ll see what I can do about putting up a per-model “BOM decoder”. Not sure when I’ll get to this. In the meantime, I believe that the part marked “ST-866” is an ultra low power 8-bit microcontroller used as a boot controller for the main SOC. It likely has some factory code burned into it, making it very difficult to source. 🙁

      Keep us posted on how you make out.

      -bob

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