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DIY: Trail Camera Lens Hacking — 27 Comments

  1. Thank You for the article. I’m interested in getting a lens with a larger aperture. I have cameras set in the forest of SE Alaska and the Elete HP 5 is switching to infrared during the day due to low light. How much help do you think the CIL 061 with a 1.9 would help.
    Thank You Gary Holt

    • That’s frustrating!

      According to the EXIF information on photos from my HP5, the factory lens is f/2.4 — so f/1.9 would be an improvement in terms of light gathering for the image sensor. Unfortunately, the lens and image sensor are not used in this camera to determine whether it takes a day or night photo 🙁 Instead, the camera decides night vs. day based on an independent reading of a Cadmium Sulfide (CDS) light sensor mounted to the right of the “aim LED” on the faceplate. Certainly you will want to make sure that the window in front of this sensor is clean and unobstructed.

      If the CDS sensor value is above some threshold, it takes a daytime photo; else it fires up the IR flash for a night time photo. I’m pretty sure the threshold is 25 — below 25, it takes a night photo/video; above 25 a day photo/video. Why am I telling you this?

      It turns out that the camera stores the value of the CDS sensor in the “EXIF” data associated with jpg files. I used Microsoft Photos to open an HP5 JPG file; then I right clicked on the photo to get a menu, and selected “File Info”. In addition to date and time, size, and device info, this also gives a somewhat cryptic string of the form:

      P00[334:339]TT[87311]E[107:0681]G[076:0x17]BV[55:0]IR[L:F:80]MOE[0:3]AL:[0:0]

      The CDS value is right up in to front, e.g. P00[{CDS_VALUE}:…. E.g. From the string above, the CDS value is 334. Take a look at some of your photos you want to be color/daylight to see what the CDS value was. Is it close to 25?

      You can also access the CDS sensor reading directly by putting the camera into “test mode” (See: Hidden Test Mode in Browning Trail Cameras and choose the “Exposure Test”. This will display on the screen the CDS sensor value. This might help you understand how the camera sees the lighting level for potential sites.

      • Thank you so much for explaining this, it has had me baffled as to why the camera was switching to IR Mode. I’m using this camera for strictly video and can’t find any data on the video file with the CDS value. I don’t suppose there is a way to lower the value of the CDS sensor. A under exposed video is much preferred to the IR video. The camera is switching to IR mode 3 hours before sunset on some days probably due to cloud cover. That is the preferred time the bears like to fish. So I guess there isn’t much value in a larger aperture with out being able to adjust the CDS sensor settings.

        • Well, now that you mention it, having done the hacks described in Adding Features to Browning Elite HP5 Firmware and New Optional Features for Browning HP5 Trail Cameras, dialing down the threshold for IR cutover wouldn’t be too hard. I was hoping that your data might give me an idea of how far to knock it down, but I can guess. I think the way to do this would be to add a new menu page for “Lens Aperture” which defaults to the factory “F/2.4” (and corresponds to the current CDS threshold); but which has an “F/1.9” option with a lower threshold. I will add this to my list. It may take me a while, as I need to fix my tools to allow me to add more stuff (I’ve run out of room with my current techniques in the HP5). I also have a few other features in the queue. In any case, when it’s done, you can test it out with the factory lens and see if you want to go through the trouble of actually replacing the lens. It would definitely be very cool to get fishing bears in color! When do you need to set your cameras out for this event?

          • I put the camera out about mid July. The highest activity is about the 1st of August. The card from last summer had 564 videos and about half were from bears in 6 weeks. That would make a good combination with a larger aperture and being dial back the CDS threshold. Thank you for taking an interest in this project

          • If you follow the blog, you may have noted an updated firmware drop that allows you to control the “Day Threshold” — that is the CDS value at which the camera switches from daytime (no flash) to nighttime (flash). In the new menu, “Standard” (the default) is the factory setting; “Low Light” will take color images at lower light, but still take black-and-white images (with flash) if there is even less light. The “No Light” option will always take color images (no matter how little light). This could lead to some dark images, but could be the right setting for your project. Apologies that this took so long — we decided to move in the middle of this project and I was a little distracted. Let me know if you try these new settings out. For pointer to firmware, see: New Features for Browning Recon Force and SpecOps Cameras

      • What do you believe the issue is with the Type S mount? Odd that if it were built to a standard it would not attach directly. And because of costs I would not think Browning would spend the money to deviate from a standard just to try to prevent someone from easily changing hardware.

        • I was surprised by this was well. From all appearances, the S-mount in the cameras *is* “standard.” Standard lens diameter, standard thread pitch, and standard placement of mounting screws. What I found though, was that the new, also “standard” S-mount lens I bought wouldn’t actually screw in 🙁 It was not the thread pitch, but there was something different in the way the threads were cut that meant it just wouldn’t go. I suspect that Browning’s supplier made the lens and the lens mount, and only sells the combination. So they didn’t do any testing with other lenses (why would they?). “Standards” are only as good as the degree of actual interoperability required, I guess.

  2. Just completed one of each of these modifications. Replaced the HP-5 with the 6mm. Easy modification in both cases. Home tests appear to be successful, now to get them into the field for a long term test.

  3. I was hoping this article was how to mount on the exterior of the camera, HP4 and/or HP5 and which mount/lenses to buy. Darn.

    • Sorry to disappoint you :/ Maybe in a future post. In the meantime, if you are interested in closeup shots, it’s relatively easy to double sticky tape a lens from a pair of reading glasses to the case in front of the lens. We’ve used this method to get some nice garden critter closeups.

      • Hi Bob,

        Just the kind of Trailcam blog I was hoping to find. Thank You!

        I’ve been experimenting with a 30.5-37mm stepup ring on my trusty 7A along with a set of 37mm close up lenses
        and I am very pleased with the results. The four close-up lenses include a +1, +2, +4 and a +10. I use the +2 for most close-ups of small rodents or birds. I’ve glued the glass-less step up ring over the lens of the 7A. The closeup lenses screw into the step up ring. If I want to use this camera without this modification I just unscrew the closeup lenses.
        I will list the items I purchased (under $20) from Amazon. if you are interested. Also I have video samples and a photo of the camera with the rings attached. Let me know where I can send these to you. The video images are stunning. I wondered being only about 22″ from my subjects if the ir flash would just blowout the image, but to my surprise, the exposures are perfect.

  4. I’m just wondering, how much of a difference in image quality is it between the stock HP5 lens and the 6mm replacement? I’m just trying to figure out if it is worth replacing the lens on an HP5 that I’m primarily going to be using as a modified macro camera. Is there a video of sample footage with a custom lens?

    Your blog is a huge resource for trail camera modifications, thanks for putting all of this together.

  5. Beyond eliminating the distortion present in the original HP5 lens, is there any increase in quality of the image gained by replacing the lens with the aftermarket 6mm one? Just trying to get an idea of what to expect before purchasing the parts and doing the replacement. Thanks for putting these articles together, they are really helpful.

    • If you’re ok with the distortion in the factory lens (as we we have become over time), and you don’t intend on changing the focal length, I wouldn’t recommend swapping the lens in the HP5. I can’t tell any difference in image quality between the factory lens and the replacement I reference in this post. Of course, if your factory lens starts getting blurry (which we haven’t noticed on the HP5’s yet), then changing the lens would fix that.

  6. Some months ago I realised the quality of the images from my Browning BTC-7E had been gradually deteriorating, looking decidely fuzzy at all distances. Looking inside at the lens I could see there was a focus adjustment but couldn’t see how it could have changed with two large blobs of glue holding it in place. However your article enlightened me and gave me confidence to change the lens itself. As I am in the UK I found one on ebay uk (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234740080686?var=534498150804). When I ordered it I asked for mounting screws at 18mm spacing which I got but the mount was not large enough to fit over the sensor. You may be able to request a different size. Luckily the lens thread was compatible with the old mount. Thanks for all the research and detailed information.

    • Glad to hear this worked out for you! I too was stymied for a while by the apparent impossibility of a fixed optics lens spontaneously developing an astigmatism — but that’s definitely what happens! Thanks for the pointer to UK lens source. Buying little plastic pieces online is always risky, so I am also relieved that the factory lens mount worked for you.

    • Hello Andrew, I have the no-glow Spec-Ops Elite HP5 and IR videos have been oddly fuzzy from new (compared to the Patriots which are also no-glow). Daytime videos are very sharp, and I suspect that they fuzzy IR videos are a consequence of the lens – sensor distance being optimised for daylight. Since I need sharp IR videos more than sharp daytime ones I was thinking of re-focussing the lens, do you thnk that the two blobs of glue would come loose ? Thanks.

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